New Surround Master coming! Its a jump to the left and a step to the right

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We've got a dilemma, in the office we can't agree on the best look for the front of the new Surround Master :eek:
We've put together some comparison renders and would love your feedback on them.

Our comparisons are:
A) Countersunk Screws, black finish, flush with the front panel
B) Socket Screws, stainless steel finish, seated into the front panel and poking out 1mm
C) Clean, no screws on the front, but to hold in place we'd put screws on the side, it should still be quite strong.

Your thoughts QQ? :unsure:
Hi Chris, nice to see you posting again (they're always an interesting read!) and we QQers really appreciate your team's interest in your customers ideas on your projects.
I'd vote for A or B (which I think looks marginally cooler).
I don't care for C and think the side fixing of the front panel would be unnecessarily complicated.
Cheers.
 
Chris - since you're still finalising the mechanical design -
I think several of us owners of the v1 SM have previously raised concerns regarding the fact that the unit runs very warm. This is doubtless due to the very small size of the original plastic case. Obviously the new case is larger but in the renders you have shared with us so far I don't see any actual ventilation holes (or indeed a little fan). The SM processors clearly dissipate a lot of heat - is heat build up still a potential problem (I'm thinking from a component longevity point of view rather than any safety concern)?
Cheers.
 
Chris - since you're still finalising the mechanical design -
I think several of us owners of the v1 SM have previously raised concerns regarding the fact that the unit runs very warm. This is doubtless due to the very small size of the original plastic case. Obviously the new case is larger but in the renders you have shared with us so far I don't see any actual ventilation holes (or indeed a little fan). The SM processors clearly dissipate a lot of heat - is heat build up still a potential problem (I'm thinking from a component longevity point of view rather than any safety concern)?
Cheers.

Hi Soundfield

We have had no failures to our knowledge due to heat. Having said that as you will all know I hate the "shitty plastic box" in the new larger metal box the heat is directly coupled to the aluminium case and the entire case is in fact a heatsink. I expect the case temperature to be no more than 40 - 45 C, no fans, no vents.

Regards

Chucky
 
Hi Soundfield

We have had no failures to our knowledge due to heat. Having said that as you will all know I hate the "shitty plastic box" in the new larger metal box the heat is directly coupled to the aluminium case and the entire case is in fact a heatsink. I expect the case temperature to be no more than 40 - 45 C, no fans, no vents.

Regards

Chucky

Thanks Chucky, good to know. I promise I won't mention the old box again!
Cheers.
 
I don't think that the type of screws will make or break any sales. Having said that I have slight preference to A style.

What I do think is odd about the design is that front left/right level control is positioned vertically as is rear left/right. Traditionally it would be placed in similar positions to speaker placement. It would be front left/right at the top & rear left/right at the bottom, so to speak. I think think that is a more natural or intuitive way of control placement.
 
I don't think that the type of screws will make or break any sales. Having said that I have slight preference to A style.

What I do think is odd about the design is that front left/right level control is positioned vertically as is rear left/right. Traditionally it would be placed in similar positions to speaker placement. It would be front left/right at the top & rear left/right at the bottom, so to speak. I think think that is a more natural or intuitive way of control placement.

Hi Sonik Wiz

Really good suggestion, really don't understand how I missed it! I have advised Chris and Greg at our end to change it, hopefully they dont object!

Regards

Chucky
 
We've got a dilemma, in the office we can't agree on the best look for the front of the new Surround Master :eek:
We've put together some comparison renders and would love your feedback on them.

Our comparisons are:
A) Countersunk Screws, black finish, flush with the front panel
B) Socket Screws, stainless steel finish, seated into the front panel and poking out 1mm
C) Clean, no screws on the front, but to hold in place we'd put screws on the side, it should still be quite strong.

Your thoughts QQ? :unsure:

View attachment 36090View attachment 36091View attachment 36092View attachment 36093
I'd say A (just) then C then B a definite last
 
Looks like the V2 has an input level control - but is there no output vol control? - this is somewhat important to me since I will be running the outputs of the V2 directly to my power amps (no intervening preamps).
 
Looks like the V2 has an input level control - but is there no output vol control? - this is somewhat important to me since I will be running the outputs of the V2 directly to my power amps (no intervening preamps).

Hi Jsrstereo

Yes it has in input level adjust. This can function as a volume control fairy well as the SM is not input level sensitive with respect to surround decode, in addition its signal to noise ratio is around 100db so you practically will not hear noise at lower volume.

This is not a true preamp style volume control but this is not a pre amp, we are working on a design separately but it will be around $2000. To achieve volume control on the 6 channels you need to add a few additional chips that would put the price up further and slow the development time.

Regards

Chucky
 
We've got a dilemma, in the office we can't agree on the best look for the front of the new Surround Master :eek:
We've put together some comparison renders and would love your feedback on them.

Our comparisons are:
A) Countersunk Screws, black finish, flush with the front panel
B) Socket Screws, stainless steel finish, seated into the front panel and poking out 1mm
C) Clean, no screws on the front, but to hold in place we'd put screws on the side, it should still be quite strong.

Your thoughts QQ? :unsure:

View attachment 36090View attachment 36091View attachment 36092View attachment 36093

I vote for any choice that works best given the thickness of the front plate. Form follows function!

Personally I have always loved the look of SHCS (socket head cap screws) nested down near surface height into an accurately concentric counterbore having a small 45° top chamfer, but only if the front plate has enough depth to leave a functionally thick seat for the base of the head to bear against.

But the most important thing to me is .... please use good quality hardware, like high quality stainless steel & preferably no Phillips heads. No, I’m not insane, it doesn’t have to be ground surface X-rayed and certified stress-relieved, precipitation hardened, 17-4 PH, or some propriatory inconel super-alloy from the space shuttle rocket thrusters, just some smart looking appropriately handsome front facing hardware!

We prefer to use fasteners equal to or better than HK (Holo-Krome) in the aerospace machine shop, and equal to/better than ARP (automotive racing products) in the automotive race engine shop when possible and/or practical.

Nothing turns me off faster than obviously cheap junk fasteners, except maybe FAKE screws like some folks do, either with poorly molded plastic pocket plugs or just the silly and crude embossing of a SHCS impression into the surface. That practice goes beyond being just plain insulting!

Yes, I know good fasteners cost disproportionately more than bulk purchased crates of shyte, but the presentation of high quality hardware contributes to the conveyance of indisputable and unmistakable design and execution excellence.

Btw, M-D-Z stands for Machine De Zine
 
You guys need to up your game, you're a bit behind the curve (like by 2.5 years!) with that old joke here!.....
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Hello Everyone!

Wow. I bet you're glad you asked now Chris!

Yes, I'm most certainly glad I asked, it's great getting everyone's input (y). There's nothing more helpful than getting feedback directly from the people who will be using them each day :giggle:

After reading through all your comments we're going to go ahead with the below choices.
- Countersunk socket screws for the front, we'll use good stainless steel fasteners ;)
- Pots will be laid out in the more intuitive 4 channel, see the image below

Thank you all for being involved, you've been very helpful and it's always great to chat :)

Here's a render

SM2_Render_2.14.jpg
 
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