Anti-static removal on vinyl LPs

QuadraphonicQuad

Help Support QuadraphonicQuad:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have tons of trouble with static in the winter months. Literally, when I lift the vinyl, I can hear the crackling and it tries to pull the mat up with it. Summer months, no static at all. It's super hard to deal with for me. I don't have the answer. OK, I do have the answer. If I use my wet wash system, that takes care of static, at least for that 1 time.
Well that seems to push me to more research, because I thought it was the dry climates that was the problem; you know because when it rains you smell that ionized air that must do something -but what?
And I'm fortunate that I don't have any carpeting in my house (allergies) so that's helpful.
 
A black fluffy round thing, bu t NOT the one that had the water reservoir inside. I guess the water was supposed to help with static but I didn't use it.

Oh man, that takes me back. Had some round thing in the early 1970s that didn't exactly have a reservoir, but had a plastic tube full of holes and filled with...uh...I don't know, cotton or something. You'd get the tube wet, stick it inside the cleaner and clean the records. In hindsight, I don't know if the water ever made it to the record, but maybe that wasn't the point.
 
I will look into this a little further, looks interesting (I'm not into putting any liquids on the LPs other than what maybe Spin Clean provides but not even sure about the Discwasher liquid, as I do believe any kind of liquid could possibly leave fine residue and build up over time)

For 15 years or so (until I mostly stopped playing vinyl, basically), I was pretty religious about using a Discwasher according to instructions. Clean brush--the original one, with superfine directional bristles--in good condition. Spread out 2 or 3 drops of fluid across the leading edge. A couple of rotations with that edge, applying the mildest pressure. "Roll" the brush slowly for a few more rotations. The advantage of the system was that you applied the liquid to the brush, not the record, and unless the record was super-dirty to begin with, that was enough to loosen and scoop up anything off the surface and out of the grooves (and then lift the remaining damp off the surface before it dried). I never saw or heard evidence of any residue.

A few years ago, when I started spinning vinyl again occasionally, I scoured the web (you've probably looked in the same places: Hoffman, Audiokarma, Audiogon, Vinyl Engine, the ARSC list, etc.) for homemade replacement recipes. At that point RCA, the most recent owner of Discwasher, was still selling both fluid and brushes, but the brushes were crap. Opinion was divided on the D4+ fluid, as that seemed to contain perceptible, by which they seemed to mean "smellable," amounts of isopropyl alcohol. (People who claimed to have chemically analyzed previous formulas--D2, 3, & 4--said it was 99% distilled water and 1% undenatured ethanol--not rubbing alcohol, with a trace amount of "surfactant." Home-brew recommendations for the surfactant: a drop or two per gallon of Dawn dishwashing liquid or Kodak "Photo-Flow." Many say you don't need need alcohol at all.) A poster on one site claimed that Science magazine had once analyzed D3 and found that it was "97% distilled water, sodium azide (to kill bacteria in the grooves), ethyline glycol (the cleaner), and a surfactant (to reduce surface tension)." So in principle there could be some residue over years and years, especially if you weren't careful about quantities and procedure. But in that case you could you just wash the record with distilled water, a little Dawn, and a soft cloth, and then rinse it with distilled water.
 
For 15 years or so (until I mostly stopped playing vinyl, basically), I was pretty religious about using a Discwasher according to instructions. Clean brush--the original one, with superfine directional bristles--in good condition. Spread out 2 or 3 drops of fluid across the leading edge. A couple of rotations with that edge, applying the mildest pressure. "Roll" the brush slowly for a few more rotations. The advantage of the system was that you applied the liquid to the brush, not the record, and unless the record was super-dirty to begin with, that was enough to loosen and scoop up anything off the surface and out of the grooves (and then lift the remaining damp off the surface before it dried). I never saw or heard evidence of any residue.

A few years ago, when I started spinning vinyl again occasionally, I scoured the web (you've probably looked in the same places: Hoffman, Audiokarma, Audiogon, Vinyl Engine, the ARSC list, etc.) for homemade replacement recipes. At that point RCA, the most recent owner of Discwasher, was still selling both fluid and brushes, but the brushes were crap. Opinion was divided on the D4+ fluid, as that seemed to contain perceptible, by which they seemed to mean "smellable," amounts of isopropyl alcohol. (People who claimed to have chemically analyzed previous formulas--D2, 3, & 4--said it was 99% distilled water and 1% undenatured ethanol--not rubbing alcohol, with a trace amount of "surfactant." Home-brew recommendations for the surfactant: a drop or two per gallon of Dawn dishwashing liquid or Kodak "Photo-Flow." Many say you don't need need alcohol at all.) A poster on one site claimed that Science magazine had once analyzed D3 and found that it was "97% distilled water, sodium azide (to kill bacteria in the grooves), ethyline glycol (the cleaner), and a surfactant (to reduce surface tension)." So in principle there could be some residue over years and years, especially if you weren't careful about quantities and procedure. But in that case you could you just wash the record with distilled water, a little Dawn, and a soft cloth, and then rinse it with distilled water.
Most of the LPs I have are pretty clean AFAIK; so I'm thinking just distilled water and see where that gets me. Not that concerned actually about removing dust or grime, but more about dealing with the static issue and actual ticks and pops of poor vinyl.
 
For 15 years or so (until I mostly stopped playing vinyl, basically), I was pretty religious about using a Discwasher according to instructions. Clean brush--the original one, with superfine directional bristles--in good condition. Spread out 2 or 3 drops of fluid across the leading edge. A couple of rotations with that edge, applying the mildest pressure. "Roll" the brush slowly for a few more rotations. The advantage of the system was that you applied the liquid to the brush, not the record, and unless the record was super-dirty to begin with, that was enough to loosen and scoop up anything off the surface and out of the grooves (and then lift the remaining damp off the surface before it dried). I never saw or heard evidence of any residue.

A few years ago, when I started spinning vinyl again occasionally, I scoured the web (you've probably looked in the same places: Hoffman, Audiokarma, Audiogon, Vinyl Engine, the ARSC list, etc.) for homemade replacement recipes. At that point RCA, the most recent owner of Discwasher, was still selling both fluid and brushes, but the brushes were crap. Opinion was divided on the D4+ fluid, as that seemed to contain perceptible, by which they seemed to mean "smellable," amounts of isopropyl alcohol. (People who claimed to have chemically analyzed previous formulas--D2, 3, & 4--said it was 99% distilled water and 1% undenatured ethanol--not rubbing alcohol, with a trace amount of "surfactant." Home-brew recommendations for the surfactant: a drop or two per gallon of Dawn dishwashing liquid or Kodak "Photo-Flow." Many say you don't need need alcohol at all.) A poster on one site claimed that Science magazine had once analyzed D3 and found that it was "97% distilled water, sodium azide (to kill bacteria in the grooves), ethyline glycol (the cleaner), and a surfactant (to reduce surface tension)." So in principle there could be some residue over years and years, especially if you weren't careful about quantities and procedure. But in that case you could you just wash the record with distilled water, a little Dawn, and a soft cloth, and then rinse it with distilled water.
A good idea never dies. Might want to check out our story as well:
www.groovewasher.com
 
A good idea never dies. Might want to check out our story as well:
www.groovewasher.com

I was just reading a promotional interview with the guy who started the company. "Our story"--is that you, Mr. Wizard?

Not that concerned actually about removing dust or grime, but more about dealing with the static issue.

I get you. Sometimes the two issues are related, though? (I.e., a quick spin with the Discwasher--assuming you use a little fluid--might help with static, too.) Just remembered that Discwasher also used to make an anti-static mat:
https://www.ebay.com/c/1241062947
 
The world of vinyl is a murky road to travel when one is after the best possible way to both clean it and keep it clean. In my humble opinion methods that apply mechanical
force into the grove can do damage and the more force that is applied to get down to the grove floor also causes the most damage to the grove walls by the friction to the grove walls
as the bristles are compressed into the narrowing vee. If one is only riding the brush with no entry into the grove just to skim larger surface particles that is pretty much ok .
From my various experiences I pretty much stick to either Record labs (Mofi) record wash and or a few different formulas enzyme fluids, with very very little pressure to the surface
and relying on the fluids to get into the groves as it were to do their job and then a good vac to pull them out. A good yard stick on results I have found on buying for example
NOS Japanese pressing then given a proper clean before before the first break in play can yield amazing results.

Caveat: your results may very pend the the earths gravitational pull, current political climate, and color of paint in your room(s) :unsure:
 
Last edited:
Well static has been a bane for me as well, wet cleaning and vacuum on my Nitty Gritty actually seemed to induce static, my trusty Quatum Instruments ant-static gun seems to make the right noises but has as much effect as a 4 year old's magic wand, the carbon fibre brush is OK (I always angle the bristles so they don't dig in) but doesn't remove static, which by the way builds as the record spins. Had to replace the felt mat on my Rega as it lifted off every time (sometimes falling off dramatically and dangerously). Now the static on my Garrard 401 lifts off the rubber mat on some records. I really think the issue is compounded by having a synthetic covered couch, you sit on it riggle about, charge yourself up and touch the record.
 
I still use my vintage Discwasher with distilled water from a spray mister. I had the original bottle of D4 fluid but I never used it.
 
I have one and I've used it. I can't be sure if it's really doing much or not, because I seem to always find vinyl noisy no matter what I do. I long ago hit the point where 99% of my vinyl playing is for the sake of digitization, where I can (usually, anyway) post-process the noise out of it.
That's not what it is for. A Zerostat is NOT a click removal tool. It is to eliminate static cling which draws debris on to the record as it plays. As a hairy armed audiophile I can tell you without a doubt that it absolutely works, but it has to be used correctly. You point it at the center of the record, IN YOUR hand, not on the turntable, and slowly draw and release the trigger. If you hear clicks you are doing it too fast (the slow motion charges the piezoelectric element). The clicks are put there to let you know you've gone too far (think torque wrench).

If you aren't sure about the investment in this item, at least get a metal handled carbon fiber brush. It will get you about 60% of the way there for less than $20. Again, you have to use it correctly. Use it in one hand as you touch grounded metal on the table or pre with the other. Start at the middle and drag it to the edge as the record revolves. This both sweeps away the debris and somewhat dissipates the charge.
 
Back in the day, Discwasher sold "anti-static" vinyl-and-ricepaper sleeves that I would buy for my most prized records. Whether they actually did anything is anybody's guess. Same for the Audio Technica "Lifesaver" solution that I also used. (I think it was silicone based?)

https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/I...o-IDX/IDX/80s/Audio-1980-02-OCR-Page-0066.pdf
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...-records…-long-and-somewhat-technical.746338/
MFSL still sells these but I use a generic at about half the price...

CheckOutStore 3 Ply Rice Paper Archival Quality Anti Static Record for 12
 
I find a wet/vacuum-dry record cleaning machine prevents static build-up. It doesn't really do much in the way of static that's already on a record but every time I buy a new record (new or new to me), it wets a wet clean and vacuum-dry.
For anyone who doesn't want to spend $500 plus on a VPI, this works just as good (I've compared) for a whole lot less coin. I use it and I highly recommend it...

Squeaky Clean Vinyl MK-III RCM 3D Printed Record Cleaner
 
I have a Zerostat3 and I absolutely find it worthless. Why? Because, you are supposed to pull the trigger at a very precise speed and you are supposed to NOT hear a loud click too early on the device. I simply cannot get the pull correct. Mine sits in a closet...never to be used I guess.
What do you want for it?
 
But do you notice much problems with static on your LPs (I know you play & convert them a lot); and if so, how do you handle it?
I do have a Discwasher brush and a Spin Clean (haven’t busted out yet- hassle. Not sure how effective the brush is on static.)

*General question for everyone weighing in.
I wanted the Spin Clean to be the answer, but it just wasn't. It's like washing your dishes in the same water you just scrubbed your pots in. The vacuum system I linked above always uses fresh, clean fluid.
 
I will look into this a little further, looks interesting (I'm not into putting any liquids on the LPs other than what maybe Spin Clean provides but not even sure about the Discwasher liquid, as I do believe any kind of liquid could possibly leave fine residue and build up over time)
We should chat about Elmer Keith sometime, I'd bet you've heard of him?
Here's one I found that looks interesting:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest...874661?hash=item3d42cf1ce5:g:xDQAAOSw5j9Zgm0h
Here is what I use. It is based on the Library of Congress formula, is quite inexpensive and works great. I follow the cleaning with a distilled water rinse.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Archivist-TergiKleenTM-Tergitol-based-Concentrate/dp/B019YI38Z2

Okay, $28 for that tiny vial doesn't seem inexpensive, but it makes up to 128 gallons of fluid. I've had my tube for probably four years and cleaned hundreds, maybe thousands of records and it's not even half empty.
 
Just found this one also, might give it a try- anyone have experience with this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Ject-B...434806?hash=item2cc8bdacf6:g:Br8AAOSwbtNZ85au
Great choice because it is inexpensive. Carbon fibers are carbon fibers. I'm pretty sure they all come from the same factory in China and just get rebranded anyway. I use this one, but that one is the same...

https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Anti-static-Record-Brush/dp/B00C4UBQ2U

I was literally just Googling for a much more expensive product to show you and found this. If I didn't already have one it is what I would buy. I may anyway. In theory the ground wire should be huge.

-Grounded- All New for 2018 Carbon Fiber Record Brush II
 
Back
Top