HELP: Technics SL-QL1 Linear tracking TT behavior

QuadraphonicQuad

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Kap'n, I am one of those freaks that believes in removing old grease that has lost its spec and the orangy stuff is horrible looking. I use WD40 applied lightly to a Qtip and clean or Varsol in the same way. Light lubes are better than sticky. Lithium is too sticky here. That brown skidmark with the yellow arrow is actually intentional. As a bicycle mechanic, I have learned that in the war between plastic and metal, rubbing plastic will always win against metal. It is protecting the wire insulation. Same as weight weenies on high end bikes that have to put a piece of electrical tape where the cable sheathes rub on the headset when they shave off millimeters and grams from a 15 pound road bike. Changing belts is always best too. the belt pic I saw |I have to assume is the old one as it is way too slack. I would carefully one at a time remove a cog and clean, lightly relube and replace and move in to the next taking pics of EVERYTHING. Caps intentional Kap'n. ;) I know you can do the repairs with observational skills and patience. Also, ask at KABUSA.com for appropriate lubes. Their advice is freely given and they carry Technics type oils and other parts though they specialise in SL1200 types. Good Luck!

Very Interesting about the intentional rub!!! Although I did see some had rubbed off the cables underneath..
Not a lot to report, though. Cleaned the brown gunk as mentioned.

Oh, and when I put it back together I did not tighten the screws to death..

Interesting part is that I was looking at the END sensor (when the arm goes all the way to the inner groove) and it was NOT THERE!!! I therefore proceeded to STUDY the Service Manual where I found I must have a later model-the run was from 81 to 84 so I am guessing 83-84, cause the sensor had been replaced by an IC in the main computer PCB...the things you learn...

And I may need to change the belt in a few years' time but I have two new ones. Hopefully I will not have to replace anything else...these TTs were really well constructed, bless these japanese!

Sounding very purty now!!!
 
If you don't like the brown gunk under the wires, put a piece of electrical tape on the path after thorough degreasing or it won't stick. I will admit I do not like gunk, it adds drag. Not what you want in the way of a tonearm.
 
Rubber and (to a slightly lesser extent) synthetic rubber are attacked by atmospheric oxygen and ozone which causes them to polymerize and get stiffer and more breakable and brittle. MidiMagic s advice is good
 
OK, so I have to either adjust the servo and/or open it up to change the belt and lubricate this baby but the seller sent it to me with an Audio Technica 3003 STUDIO REFERENCE Cartridge and an elliptical 3003 stylus which can be upgraded with a Shibata stylus ...well, it's not THAT top of the line as the name implies but , hey...
 
OK, so I have to either adjust the servo and/or open it up to change the belt and lubricate this baby but the seller sent it to me with an Audio Technica 3003 STUDIO REFERENCE Cartridge and an elliptical 3003 stylus which can be upgraded with a Shibata stylus ...well, it's not THAT top of the line as the name implies but , hey...
I've got that same cartridge (AT-3003) and it's terrific. There are several youtube videos on how to open and repair the Technics linear turntables, including belt replacement. You might not find a video for your exact model, but there's a lot of similarities in most all of them. I used this SL-10 video to repair my SL-15.
 
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The cartridge comes out with one screw which locks it (get a short screwdriver about 3 inches long) and then pulls out. Make sure you remove the cartridge and put it someplace safe (medicine vial with cotton) before you start playing with it. P mount cartridges are getting harder and harder to find.
 
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