Here it is: the JCQS-440 A.F.V. also known as the Wurlyscope.

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Wurly1

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[QUOTE="Wurly1, post: 599555, member: 13641"
I have already checked if i could add some leds above each function buttons but it would not be possible for all functions. I also wondered if a bunch of mode leds won't affect the "visual pleasure" of the display and it would certainly do so. I will investigate if i could make some sort of "mode status" display area.

For the mk-I "Normal operation" is when the push-buttons are in the "out" position.
Quad/Stereo : out=Quad, in=Stereo
Fast/Slow: out=Fast, in=Slow
Normal/Differential: out=Normal, in=Differential
Power: out=Off, in=On
Thanks Wurly. Will make up a small label with this info and maybe stick it on top of unit or off to the side. Or somewhere out of place so it doesn’t distract from the perfection that is the Wurlyscope...

...Also interesting is seeing the difference between a fully discrete signal and one from my Tate processor. You get to see how the decoder does it thing. Not as pretty to look at but interesting nonetheless. But I am sure that this is old hat to longtime owners of scopes.
[/QUOTE]

I wonder? Do you still hear the Power-on Pop if you set the Wurlyscope input volume controls to zero?

I sincerely hope the mk-II to be as perfect otherwise it will not bare the Wurlyscope brand! :geek:

Indeed it's interesting to see the difference between discrete and decoded signals. The signal separation is clearly visible.
The mk-II will display 8.1 channels, Star Wars will be fun to watch! 🤩
 

doity

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Yes, the Wurlyscope name alone denotes a brand of distinction. A product of unparalleled excellence for the discerning consumer. When only the best will do, there is Wurlyscope. :)
 

MidiMagic

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I have often used time division to dim LEDs uniformly. Turn them on for a percentage of the time (at a frequency above human fusion) and off for the remainder of the time.

Usually a loud pop is caused by DC-coupling between components or a capacitor with no bleed resistance to discharge it,.
 

Wurly1

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I have often used time division to dim LEDs uniformly. Turn them on for a percentage of the time (at a frequency above human fusion) and off for the remainder of the time.

Usually a loud pop is caused by DC-coupling between components or a capacitor with no bleed resistance to discharge it,.
That's a very good idea. I will certainly try time division to dim the LEDs on the mk-II. The only trouble could be with the frequency response of the LED matrix display which is up to 20 khz. So the ideal time division will have to be above 200 khz to avoid undesired interferences between channels.

As for the mk-I inputs, this is the typical inputs schematics. Inputs and outputs are direct pass-thru. Any idea why it pop?


Note: The mk-II will have some additional coupling capacitors and bleeding resistors. According to my simulations the power-on pop will be less than 2mv. and will be around 25z
 

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jefe1

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Please put me down to order an MK-II when they are ready.
No girl can resist a Wurlyscope..........:cool:
 

Wurly1

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I have resume work on the mk-II. While working on the front control panel, i found the size of it would be 17 inches wide (425mm) by 7-1/16 tall (180mm) the screen hole would be about 5-15/16 inches diameter or 148,7 mm. I'm afraid it would be a little big relative to the size of the handles. What are your though about the size of it all?
 
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doity

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So the dimensions are not including the cabinet? If so, yeah that’s kind of big. How about my recommendation from some time back for just a largish LED light dead center for center channel and a cutout with overlay for subwoofer output? You wouldn’t need to change the size of the control panel and still have room for any extra button(s).
 

Wurly1

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So the dimensions are not including the cabinet? If so, yeah that’s kind of big. How about my recommendation from some time back for just a largish LED light dead center for center channel and a cutout with overlay for subwoofer output? You wouldn’t need to change the size of the control panel and still have room for any extra button(s).
17 inches wide (425mm) by 7-1/16 tall (180mm) is the size of the front of the cabinet. The new screen diameter will be much larger at about 5-15/16 inches diameter or 148,7 mm.

the mk-I is 17 inches wide (425mm) by 6-3/4 tall (172mm) which is very similar but the screen was only 4-3/4 inches diameter (122mm)
 
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doity

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17 inches wide (425mm) by 7-1/16 tall (180mm) is the size of the front of the cabinet. The new screen diameter will be much larger at about 5-15/16 inches diameter or 148,7 mm.

the mk-I is 17 inches wide (425mm) by 6-3/4 tall (172mm) which is very similar but the screen was only 4-3/4 inches diameter (122mm)
Ok, so the screen will be roughly an inch and a quarter larger. I personally think that the dimensions of the mk1 are perfect. Big enough, but still appearing sleek. Call me crazy.........but I think it looks cool even turned off. I think that if the screen got too large that it might throw off the symmetry of it. Whether or not you initially planned it out that way, it works well.
 

Wurly1

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Ok, so the screen will be roughly an inch and a quarter larger. I personally think that the dimensions of the mk1 are perfect. Big enough, but still appearing sleek. Call me crazy.........but I think it looks cool even turned off. I think that if the screen got too large that it might throw off the symmetry of it. Whether or not you initially planned it out that way, it works well.
That's how i feel about it too. I will redo from scratch the screen pcb and reduce the screen size to that of the mk-I. The traces will have to be smaller but i think it will work fine. :oops:
I don't want create a Frankenstein mk-II ! 😨
:)
 

doity

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That's how i feel about it too. I will redo from scratch the screen pcb and reduce the screen size to that of the mk-I. The traces will have to be smaller but i think it will work fine. :oops:
I don't want create a Frankenstein mk-II ! 😨
:)
You don’t want to mess with the perfection that is the Wurlyscope. That is like trying to ‘fix’ the Mona Lisa or painting over the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. You just don’t do it! Besides, you just might upset the whole space-time continuum if you do. And how would you fix that? See......it’s a no brainer.
 

MidiMagic

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How many kilobucks will this cost?

I once built an SQ decoder that goes after the power amp. I made it with parts I got in a big box at a surplus materials auction for $10.

Then I priced making a new one with new parts. The parts alone would have been over $1000.
 

Soundfield

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That's how i feel about it too. I will redo from scratch the screen pcb and reduce the screen size to that of the mk-I. The traces will have to be smaller but i think it will work fine. :oops:
I don't want create a Frankenstein mk-II ! 😨
:)
I agree the form factor of the Mk.1 is just fine. Anything larger would be generally unmanageable in most applications I'd have thought. Hope the house move went OK Jean!
 

Wurly1

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I agree the form factor of the Mk.1 is just fine. Anything larger would be generally unmanageable in most applications I'd have thought. Hope the house move went OK Jean!
It was quite a move! Of course it will take long to put back everything in it's new place. :)
The good news is I can now resume work on the mk-II design.
I started a new screen pcb from scratch using the "too-large" version as a general guide to improve upon.
So far it will have the same exact size as the mk-I :dance
 

doity

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When do we get to see pictures or a video (or an artists rendering) of the mk2 in action?
 
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