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Linear tracking TT question

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kap'n krunch

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I've never had a linear tracker but always wanted to. I'm a big fan of women and have had the same one for 30 years now.
The Technics SL-QL1 and SL-DL1 are "brothers" and there's one in fleabay for $140..they sound great with an Ortofon OM 30 cart/stylus.. I decided to go for the Yamaha cause I wanted to see how a TT that accepts both MC and MM carts performs...
 

kap'n krunch

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Update, and not a good one.
Received it last Friday and tried to install it today.
Followed all the directions on how to unlock the arm.
Was setting the arm and it said you have to turn it on to adjust the angle.
As soon as I turned it on I suspected the worst.
There was a whirring noise and the platter DID SPIN but it won't STOP (the CUT button). And the FORWARD nor BACK (arm moving in and out) buttons work. I had to hit the POWER button to stop it (it's a manual TT)

..shit...I have NEVER bought a TT on fleabay that arrives in working condition...the Technics ones were easy more or less cause there were repair places in Madrid (Panasonic) ..but a YAMAHA place in New Orleans...or even Louisiana?

Any thoughts?...returning it, looking for someone who can repair it? ask for a HUGE refund?
 

DuncanS

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I've my old parallel tracking Technics SL-7 sitting :( forlornly in the corner as I never found anyone in the UK who could repair it - I loved it. I've a Rega Planar 3 I use now.
 

gene_stl

Well-known Member
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Nov 3, 2019
Messages
147
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St.Louis
I think I would just get a refund. It is possible to get anything fixed but the question is , is it worthwhile.
I went back and looked at the auction and the seller touted it as working and original and like new. Where are you located?
 

Cyber 1

400 Club - QQ All-Star
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
426
either the switches need to be deoxit cleaned or you have the known failure of the sensor "C" board the triggers the senors has gone bad which is the most likely cause.
sent you a pm
 

gene_stl

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Nov 3, 2019
Messages
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Is there an audio repair shop in New Orleans?

What cyber1 says makes plenty of sense. I am not familiar with this particular linear tracker.

It did indeed look very low mileage but that doesn't tell you if a weak spot in the design has failed.

Sometimes gear gets stiff sitting in storage. Try exercising it for a while. You might be pleasantly surprised.

You should notify both the seller and ebay immediately. Be aware of what ebays time limits are to open a case or ask them for a refund. Ebay will DEFINITELY give refunds even if the seller says no.
Especially if they advertised the unit as working and it doesn't. It boils down to whether you want to grab the ball for restoration. I wouldn't attack it with a screwdriver nor pay anyone to do so, until and unless somebody puts in writing that they will guarantee your refund. Sometimes repair attempts can make matters worse. It might be that the best course of action is just return it. Depends how badly you want it.
 

kap'n krunch

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Is there an audio repair shop in New Orleans?

What cyber1 says makes plenty of sense. I am not familiar with this particular linear tracker.

It did indeed look very low mileage but that doesn't tell you if a weak spot in the design has failed.

Sometimes gear gets stiff sitting in storage. Try exercising it for a while. You might be pleasantly surprised.

You should notify both the seller and ebay immediately. Be aware of what ebays time limits are to open a case or ask them for a refund. Ebay will DEFINITELY give refunds even if the seller says no.
Especially if they advertised the unit as working and it doesn't. It boils down to whether you want to grab the ball for restoration. I wouldn't attack it with a screwdriver nor pay anyone to do so, until and unless somebody puts in writing that they will guarantee your refund. Sometimes repair attempts can make matters worse. It might be that the best course of action is just return it. Depends how badly you want it.
I notified the seller ...and I SHOULD know how to notify ebay but I don't...
 

BigAlt

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Sep 7, 2015
Messages
24
Location
Sequim, WA
I think I would just get a refund. It is possible to get anything fixed but the question is , is it worthwhile.
I went back and looked at the auction and the seller touted it as working and original and like new. Where are you located?
 

BigAlt

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Messages
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Location
Sequim, WA
I had the same problem with a PX3 I purchased on eBay. The seller didn’t have the plastic piece that locked down the sled that the arm rides on so it wouldn’t move during transit. This resulted in the sled breaking the arm off one of the two micro switches that control the start of the platter during operation. When you press play, the sled starts to move towards the center. After a short distance it pushes down the first lever which starts the platter. After the arm lowers and the record plays and the arm lifts, the sled hits the second lever which stops the platter and the sled returns to the start position. If the second lever or switch is damaged, the platter will not stop and you have the problem you’ve described.
I downloaded the PX 3 service manual from the web https://www.vintageshifi.com/repertoire-pdf/pdf/telecharge.php?pdf=Yamaha-PX-3-Service-Manual.pdf and disassembled my PX 3. The micro switch is part #18 on the diagram of the Tonearm Unit. I was unable to find a replacement micro switch that had the lever attached but did find a nearly identical micro switch at Dig-Key that had a flat top ( Digi-Key part # D2SW-P2L1D-ND ) that I could super glue the original lever to. I did so and installed the modified micro switch. It worked perfectly And still does ( 5 years later ).
 
Last edited:

kap'n krunch

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Messages
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I had the same problem with a PX3 I purchased on eBay. The seller didn’t have the plastic piece that locked down the sled that the arm rides on so it wouldn’t move during transit. This resulted in the sled breaking the arm off one of the two micro switches that control the start of the platter during operation. When you press play, the sled starts to move towards the center. After a short distance it pushes down the first lever which starts the platter. After the arm lowers and the record plays and the arm lifts, the sled hits the second lever which stops the platter and the sled returns to the start position. If the second lever or switch is damaged, the platter will not stop and you have the problem you’ve described.
I downloaded the PX 3 service manual from the web https://www.vintageshifi.com/repertoire-pdf/pdf/telecharge.php?pdf=Yamaha-PX-3-Service-Manual.pdf and disassembled my PX 3. The micro switch is part #18 on the diagram of the Tonearm Unit. I was unable to find a replacement micro switch that had the lever attached but did find a nearly identical micro switch at Dig-Key that had a flat top ( Digi-Key part # D2SW-P2L1D-ND ) that I could super glue the original lever to. I did so and installed the modified micro switch. It worked perfectly And still does ( 5 years later ).
Is it this one?
 

BigAlt

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Messages
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That’s the one. You will have to remove the assembly it’s attached to and then unsolder it’s six feet from the circuit board ( a desoldering iron works best as there is less chance of overheating the solder traces on the board and damaging them but desoldering braid will work if you’re careful to not overheat ). You then solder the new micro switch back in ( making sure you’ve oriented it correctly with the hinge side on the same side as the original. Then superglue the lever from the original micro switch to the new switch also making sure that the white plastic trip lever on the lever is the same distance from the hinge as the non damaged one and also being careful not to get any of the super glue anywhere else but on the joint between the broken lever and the metal lever on the replaced micro switch Here are photos of my undamaged micro switch and the damaged switch I originally tried to repair by gluing the broken lever back onto the original switch ( it wouldn’t hold ).
1584466969476.jpeg
1584467011248.jpeg
1584466969476.jpeg1584467011248.jpeg
 

kap'n krunch

2K Club - QQ Super Nova
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That’s the one. You will have to remove the assembly it’s attached to and then unsolder it’s six feet from the circuit board ( a desoldering iron works best as there is less chance of overheating the solder traces on the board and damaging them but desoldering braid will work if you’re careful to not overheat ). You then solder the new micro switch back in ( making sure you’ve oriented it correctly with the hinge side on the same side as the original. Then superglue the lever from the original micro switch to the new switch also making sure that the white plastic trip lever on the lever is the same distance from the hinge as the non damaged one and also being careful not to get any of the super glue anywhere else but on the joint between the broken lever and the metal lever on the replaced micro switch Here are photos of my undamaged micro switch and the damaged switch I originally tried to repair by gluing the broken lever back onto the original switch ( it wouldn’t hold ).
View attachment 47422View attachment 47423View attachment 47422View attachment 47423
Holy Moley!
As a non repairman and with little experience with soldering irons I would NOT try to do this myself but I'd find a trustworthy person to do so ..that is THE pending subject in my life, learning to repair electronics... :( and this TT would not be the best place to start in case I f*ck it up..
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
I WILL get the part and will report back .. well, after the pandemic...
 

Cyber 1

400 Club - QQ All-Star
Joined
Sep 14, 2011
Messages
426
if it was shipped without the arm secured then that is a simple thing to check, so one should then check the micro switch first, there are other things that should be done while it is apart, a service on it is most likely needed to be done. If the switch is working then it's most likely the C board as that is the common failure part and as mentioned Kap'n it is a avaible part
 
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