After reading Sonics posts about the Zektor switcher I went searching eBay. Along came a deal for two model HDS4 2’s. The price was less than other comparable offers for a single unit. I added it to my eBay watch list. As is often the case, the seller sent me an even better offer. I snapped them up. Upon receipt I noticed that the seller forgot to include the power adaptors (wall warts). The seller apologised and then gave me a further discount!
In usual fashion I decided that I would like to rack mount the switches. Usually to do that all that you have to do is remove the top cover, drill a couple of holes and then attach the adaptors with small machine screws and nuts. The Zektor is not that easy. The case has no lid but consists of two roughly L shaped pieces one for the front and top the other for the bottom and back. The two pieces overlap somewhat on the sides.
Several methods could have been used to mount the adaptors. I could have used a tap and die to thread holes on the sides but that would be difficult as the metal is a bit thin to allow for a lot of thread depth and you have to go through two separate metal layers. Another possibility would be to simply use self tapping screws. That just didn’t seem right to me either. I chose to glue nuts on the inside of the box and then was I was able to attach the adaptors with machine screws. I used my favourite “grey glue” Loctite EA E-90FL epoxy adhesive, to glue in the nuts. This epoxy takes a very long time to cure but is much better, stronger and longer lasting than that five minute garbage!
Disassembly involved removing the front panel, being careful not to lose the small plastic (fibre optic) light tubes that are used to conduct the light from the PC board surface mounted LED’s to the surface of the front panel. From the factory they were held in place by a small dab of silicon sealant. I was able to reassemble one unit, one time without the sealant. Further attempts without the sealant became frustrating. Reassembly was a breeze; by following the factory procedure of simply adding a dab of sealant to each “tube”.
Another hiccup was that the front panel and the main board are connected by a short flat ribbon cable. After disassembling and reassembling both units a couple of times I ended up damaging the cables on both units. Luckily ribbon cable replacements are readily available on eBay for only a buck or two. I purchased some that were a bit longer than the originals and that made a huge difference with reassembly. I could have gone a bit longer still with the ribbon cable; as there is plenty of room for it to fold over inside the case.
About gluing in the nuts; the first step is to hold the rack mount adaptors in their proper location on the assembled unit, then mark the holes. I used a "Sharpie" marker for that purpose. Disassemble then drill the holes in the top chassis piece. Reassemble and then mark the holes in the bottom chassis. Disassemble and drill the bottom case holes. The holes could be drilled all at once if you are sure that you won’t be drilling into the PC board! Working with the bottom chassis and using the rack adaptors as a guide insert the machine screws and attach with the nuts. Then tip the unit on its side and run a bit of epoxy around the nuts, be careful not to get glue on the machine screws. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least a day, preferably for several days. Then remove the screws and tip the unit to the other side and repeat the procedure. I found that it was easier to use two nuts instead of one, which gave more room for the epoxy and there was less chance of getting any glue on the screw threads. Reassemble the unit and attach the adaptor with the machine screws.
I’m using (or will be when I get more RCA cables) the Zektors to switch between decoders. I have mounted many of my decoders into a single Hammond Rack frame 1459JBK1. At the top are the Space and Image Composer then the Tate II. Next is a Kramer Video audio Distribution Amplifier. I’m only using the audio section of it to buffer the single stereo input to ten outputs. That way I can drive up to ten decoders from a single input without the need of any switching. Because almost nobody still uses composite video you can find these units used at bargain prices.
Below the Kramer is the Gemini SP-1 Circle Surround Decoder. Below that is the Sansui QS-1 with Involve module inside. Next is the Sony QSD-2010 with the Involve SQ module inside. Then is a Tripp-Light power bar with six outlets on the back and another six on the front. On the bottom is the Vista (Photolume) Vario-matrix decoder the Lafayette SQ-L and the Connaught Model 1530E SQ Decoder.
The first Zektor selects between the S&IC, Tate II, SP-1, QS1. The second Zektor connects to the S&IC’s discrete input, which then selects the remaining sources (decoders).
It is a credit to Hammond that they still make many/most of the same items as in many years past. They are a great source for chassis, racks and transformers. In the late seventies I purchased a similar Hammond rack, the main difference was that at that time they only came in grey, although black might have been available on special order (I forget now). When I thought about purchasing a second one I found that it had been discontinued, however this model replaces it and aside from the colour the only other difference is that the original had tapped 10/32 screw holes while this one comes with clips. All I did to it was add Shepherd caster wheels to the bottom of it.
In usual fashion I decided that I would like to rack mount the switches. Usually to do that all that you have to do is remove the top cover, drill a couple of holes and then attach the adaptors with small machine screws and nuts. The Zektor is not that easy. The case has no lid but consists of two roughly L shaped pieces one for the front and top the other for the bottom and back. The two pieces overlap somewhat on the sides.
Several methods could have been used to mount the adaptors. I could have used a tap and die to thread holes on the sides but that would be difficult as the metal is a bit thin to allow for a lot of thread depth and you have to go through two separate metal layers. Another possibility would be to simply use self tapping screws. That just didn’t seem right to me either. I chose to glue nuts on the inside of the box and then was I was able to attach the adaptors with machine screws. I used my favourite “grey glue” Loctite EA E-90FL epoxy adhesive, to glue in the nuts. This epoxy takes a very long time to cure but is much better, stronger and longer lasting than that five minute garbage!
Disassembly involved removing the front panel, being careful not to lose the small plastic (fibre optic) light tubes that are used to conduct the light from the PC board surface mounted LED’s to the surface of the front panel. From the factory they were held in place by a small dab of silicon sealant. I was able to reassemble one unit, one time without the sealant. Further attempts without the sealant became frustrating. Reassembly was a breeze; by following the factory procedure of simply adding a dab of sealant to each “tube”.
Another hiccup was that the front panel and the main board are connected by a short flat ribbon cable. After disassembling and reassembling both units a couple of times I ended up damaging the cables on both units. Luckily ribbon cable replacements are readily available on eBay for only a buck or two. I purchased some that were a bit longer than the originals and that made a huge difference with reassembly. I could have gone a bit longer still with the ribbon cable; as there is plenty of room for it to fold over inside the case.
About gluing in the nuts; the first step is to hold the rack mount adaptors in their proper location on the assembled unit, then mark the holes. I used a "Sharpie" marker for that purpose. Disassemble then drill the holes in the top chassis piece. Reassemble and then mark the holes in the bottom chassis. Disassemble and drill the bottom case holes. The holes could be drilled all at once if you are sure that you won’t be drilling into the PC board! Working with the bottom chassis and using the rack adaptors as a guide insert the machine screws and attach with the nuts. Then tip the unit on its side and run a bit of epoxy around the nuts, be careful not to get glue on the machine screws. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least a day, preferably for several days. Then remove the screws and tip the unit to the other side and repeat the procedure. I found that it was easier to use two nuts instead of one, which gave more room for the epoxy and there was less chance of getting any glue on the screw threads. Reassemble the unit and attach the adaptor with the machine screws.
I’m using (or will be when I get more RCA cables) the Zektors to switch between decoders. I have mounted many of my decoders into a single Hammond Rack frame 1459JBK1. At the top are the Space and Image Composer then the Tate II. Next is a Kramer Video audio Distribution Amplifier. I’m only using the audio section of it to buffer the single stereo input to ten outputs. That way I can drive up to ten decoders from a single input without the need of any switching. Because almost nobody still uses composite video you can find these units used at bargain prices.
Below the Kramer is the Gemini SP-1 Circle Surround Decoder. Below that is the Sansui QS-1 with Involve module inside. Next is the Sony QSD-2010 with the Involve SQ module inside. Then is a Tripp-Light power bar with six outlets on the back and another six on the front. On the bottom is the Vista (Photolume) Vario-matrix decoder the Lafayette SQ-L and the Connaught Model 1530E SQ Decoder.
The first Zektor selects between the S&IC, Tate II, SP-1, QS1. The second Zektor connects to the S&IC’s discrete input, which then selects the remaining sources (decoders).
It is a credit to Hammond that they still make many/most of the same items as in many years past. They are a great source for chassis, racks and transformers. In the late seventies I purchased a similar Hammond rack, the main difference was that at that time they only came in grey, although black might have been available on special order (I forget now). When I thought about purchasing a second one I found that it had been discontinued, however this model replaces it and aside from the colour the only other difference is that the original had tapped 10/32 screw holes while this one comes with clips. All I did to it was add Shepherd caster wheels to the bottom of it.
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