Watermark issue with car DVD-A player

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ted_b

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I am trying to make copies of some of my favorite commercial DVD-A's for archiving and using in the car (Infiniti Bose DTS/DVD-A system), not for resale of course. I've ripped plenty of DVD-A hirez 2 channel layers using DVDAExplorer (for use in computer 24/192 DAC setup). I finally figured out how to rip the 5.1 layer (merge groups in DVDAExplorer) and burn it to a DVD-R (or DL) using HD Audio Solo. It plays nicely in my current home universal (Oppo 83 Special Edition) but car system mutes after 15 seconds of each track (watermark?), regardless of Memorex DVD-R or Verbatim DVD-R DL. I know one obvious solution: use the burnt disc inside and the original in the car. Yes, that would work but is not optimum (I don't want to risk scratching the originals, and although careful, sometimes gets lazy :) ) . Does anyone have another solution (I've bought several double copies, but not the whole damn collection)? Is there a possibility of a firmware solution (although no idea how to update fw on car dvd player)? Thx
Ted
 
Nobody figured out how to break the watermark. I wonder if my panasonic will play through the watermark?

I guess one "solution" would be to do a dts dvd or cd, but then of course it's not original quality, but at least you could listen to them.
 
A simple way to play the DTS or DD tracks of your DVD-A discs would be to back them up by simply using DVDFab: http://www.dvdfab.com/

Back up your own discs and play the DVD-V section by changing the settings of your car player if possible. That way one does not scratch your irreplaceable DVD-A discs in the car and the discs should play the DVD-A section no problem in an Oppo player. Unfortunately, without an “upgrade” to one’s DVD-A player (that is, if it's possible with one's make and model) the watermark cannot be broken. Some DVD-A's do not have watermarks.
 
That's a good point, you can even tell dvd fab to ignore the audio-ts folder and just copy the parts you need. Also, you can have it ingore menus, which can be a pain when you're in the car
 
Thanks. I'll try the DTS idea, or just use the originals in the car (with special handling). And yes, I was looking forward to my menu-less 5.1 discs for the car. :)
 
This is a frustrating aspect of DVD-A in the car. In my Acura, of course any copy stops after 10-15 seconds of each track, yet the car is where you want to be able to use a copy so your high-value discs don't get damaged or worn.

At this point, I have found no way to play copied/archived/compilated DVD-A's in my car without going the DTS CD route.
 
So How do I go the DTS route? Say I want the DtS layer from Kamakiriad, or convert the MLP hirez that I've already ripped, now convert into DTS? Will the HD Audio Solo and/or DVDAExplorer tools get me there, or most of the way? I also have DVD Audio Extractor (for ripping PCM stuff from DVD-V) This wil all be done PC based, not MAC Thx
Ted
 
You'll need a DTS encoder. Either DTS Pro Encoder or SurCode DTS CD Pro will do. The reason for this, even though you have a DTS layer already, is the 48K vs 44.1K sampling rate. The DTS CD needs to be at 44.1K and the best you can get from DVD Audio Extractor is DTS at 48K. Going to need to convert to wav and then re-encode to DTS.

With the tools you listed, you have two good ways to get ready for DTS encoding:

1) Use DVDAExplorer, extract the 24/96 wavs from the MLP choosing the separate file for each channel function. Then use a tool like Soundforge to batch resample and reduce bitdepth to 16/44.1. Now you're ready for DTS encoding. This is probably the better sounding option although in a car at 16/44.1, that may not be decernable. I've read where you can use the 24 bit depth for a DTS CD so the bitdepth reduction may not be necessary. I've not tried it personally.

2) The easier method is to use DVD Audio Extractor and extract the DTS file to 16 bit/44.1 6 channel wavs. Choose separate files for each chapter, and separate files for each channel. Then you're ready for DTS encoding. The downside to this is you've just converted a lossey format to wav and then reconverted it to a lossey format again. That may not be an issue in the car at 16/44.1 (or 24/44.1).

Hope this helps. Someone may chime in with another method. If so, I'll learn something new as well.

Good luck,
George
 
George,
Thanks. Actually I just did the Old Quad Guy recommendation and downloaded DVDFab for trial (30 day full function). It extracts any layer/group you need (I did the DTS group) and then copied to another DVD. It works fine. Guess I could have used DVD Audio Extractor too (now that i think of it). Yes, DTS is enough for my car, although as a snob I love the sound of MLP in my car ! :)
 
Yes indeed. Keeping it in the DVD format is easiest. No need to resample.

I thought you were interested in going to DTS CD. I read something that wasn't there. My bad.

DVD Audio Extractor could work but would require creating a DVD once you had the DTS file. DVDFab is by far the easiest because it results in a video_ts thats ready for play. Guess that's why Old Quad Guy recommended it. He's a pretty sharp cookie.

Glad it worked for you.
George
 
if you are wanting to remove DVD-Audio Verance watermark protection of the car DVD, it cannot be done. not even clone should work you'll probably get a copy, of sorts, but the audio quality will have been downgraded to CD quality.
 
1) Use DVDAExplorer, extract the 24/96 wavs from the MLP choosing the separate file for each channel function. Then use a tool like Soundforge to batch resample and reduce bitdepth to 16/44.1. Now you're ready for DTS encoding. This is probably the better sounding option although in a car at 16/44.1, that may not be decernable. I've read where you can use the 24 bit depth for a DTS CD so the bitdepth reduction may not be necessary. I've not tried it personally.

2) The easier method is to use DVD Audio Extractor and extract the DTS file to 16 bit/44.1 6 channel wavs. Choose separate files for each chapter, and separate files for each channel. Then you're ready for DTS encoding. The downside to this is you've just converted a lossey format to wav and then reconverted it to a lossey format again. That may not be an issue in the car at 16/44.1 (or 24/44.1).

The SUrCode encoder is happy with a 24-bit file. It gives a better result too - no bit reduction.....
 
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