Need new turntable
- Thread starter Epcot
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a member since 2010...FIRST POST
What is your current turntable and cartridge? How did it give up the ghost? I ask because most vintage tables that can play CD4 are usually worth rehabbing. Vinyl Engine can also help show you how to repair it, if going to a shop is beyond your current means. I do not know which modern turntables are suitable, but finding a second hand Technics direct drive table is almost a guarantee of being CD4 capable. An SL-Q2 or SL-D2 or anything from SL1100 toSL1800 is a good match too. Others may be good too, but these are off the top of my head. I currently use an SL5200.
Technics SL-1500 Mark I is working really well for me, but anything with low-capacitance cables will do. Better to lose the TT than either the cart or demodulator, which are much tougher to replace.
quadsearcher
1K Club - QQ Shooting Star
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Many quality turntables are much easier to repair than to choose/purchase a new one. Unless a truck drove over it. If it has been working OK for CD-4 that is a big plus. What is the existing turntable?
I realize that I am risking a barrage of hate mail, but straight tonearms are better-suited to clean CD-4 performance than S-shaped arms. This isn't just my opinion. Search for Cai Campbell's opinions on CD-4 playback. My main CD-4 turntable is a Rega P3 with an Audio Technica AT-15Sa CD-4 cartridge, and I have a Dual 704 in my home office with an Audio Technica AT14S. Both are moving magnet cartridges with Shibata styli. Some guys will tell you that they use cartridges without the correct styli, but the Shibata was designed for CD-4 playback. Be prepared for a lot of "I am using such-and-such, and it works fine" replies, but it isn't that simple.
Low-capacitance tonearm cables are just as important as the cartridge and stylus. The requirement is for less than 200 pF from the cartridge pins to the demodulator, but less than 100 pF is much better. I rewired my Rega with a low-capacitance Incognito wiring kit, and I replaced the Dual tonearm cables with Belden wiring. Both were great improvements in CD-4 playback, and both are now less than 100 pF of capacitance. Also, even if a cartridge has a frequency response that 'seems' like it will handle the CD-4 subcarrier, the separation spec at those ultrasonic frequencies will determine its CD-4 performance. Just 'getting to' 30 or 40 kHz is no guarantee.
Don't forget the importance of proper tonearm/stylus geometry to CD-4 playback. Until I bought a Geo-Disc alignment protractor, I always thought that my turntables were set up properly using my ancient ADC alignment protractor. Yes, there are free downloadable ones, but most simple devices don't do a complete job because they fail to align to the tonearm pivot point. It was well-worth the price. Let the hate mail begin.
Low-capacitance tonearm cables are just as important as the cartridge and stylus. The requirement is for less than 200 pF from the cartridge pins to the demodulator, but less than 100 pF is much better. I rewired my Rega with a low-capacitance Incognito wiring kit, and I replaced the Dual tonearm cables with Belden wiring. Both were great improvements in CD-4 playback, and both are now less than 100 pF of capacitance. Also, even if a cartridge has a frequency response that 'seems' like it will handle the CD-4 subcarrier, the separation spec at those ultrasonic frequencies will determine its CD-4 performance. Just 'getting to' 30 or 40 kHz is no guarantee.
Don't forget the importance of proper tonearm/stylus geometry to CD-4 playback. Until I bought a Geo-Disc alignment protractor, I always thought that my turntables were set up properly using my ancient ADC alignment protractor. Yes, there are free downloadable ones, but most simple devices don't do a complete job because they fail to align to the tonearm pivot point. It was well-worth the price. Let the hate mail begin.
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No hate mail here, just a big AMEN! I also love my Geo-disc. To piggyback, I chose my vintage Marantz 6300 because of the proper capacitance’d cables and use an AT20 cart and stylus I was lucky to find when I did, and have never looked back. The demodulators I rotate in (Technics and Marantz) and other places down the line are where I have had struggles with CD-4 playback, but it always gets worked out. Point being, knowing the tt end of it is good gives peace of mind. Good luck to you, Epcot. You have found the home of the best people and help you could ever need.
Thanks, Laura. It is good to know that there are still a few analog quadraphonic fans left at a QuadraphonicQuad website in a digital world.
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Speaking of low capacitance cables, anyone try Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 cables as turntable cables for CD-4? They are 12pf/ft and seem would be an excellent choice but haven't tried myself. I've been doing CD-4 since the late 70's and have a decent collection of CD-4 LP's but my "official" designated low cap cable from that era died long ago; been using the stock Music Hall cable that came with a MMF-7.1 tt but curious if BJC would be better.
vinylguy4
701 Club - QQ All-Star
Yes, I use a Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 cable with my Pioneer PLX-1000 TT and AT150Sa cartridge. The LC-1 cable made the difference from non-working setup to a working setup. Inexpensive and works. Recommended.
markshan
1K Club - QQ Shooting Star
I'm not at all sure why straight would be different than S, but the rest of the post seems very sound.
markshan
1K Club - QQ Shooting Star
OP, what kind of table and please elaborate on "gave up the ghost".
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