Here it is: the JCQS-440 A.F.V. also known as the Wurlyscope.

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A clever way of integrating 8.1 channels, but if only fed with an ordinary quad signal won't there be four disjointed segments separated by a non-illuminated ch 5-8 cross?
 
Here is the other side of the screen PCB.
 

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Just finished the module replacing the LM3915 used in the mk-I
Now working on the control PCB.
Assembling will not start before all modules are ready verified and tested in simulations.
 

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Last edited:
Do the 5-8 channel lights share the same red LED’s as the center channel indicator lights? I’m not seeing them but maybe I didn’t look close enough. I thought you said that they were on the back of the pcb?
 
Do the 5-8 channel lights share the same red LED’s as the center channel indicator lights? I’m not seeing them but maybe I didn’t look close enough. I thought you said that they were on the back of the pcb?
The answer is Yes and No ! :SB
Ch 5-8 are bi-color LEDs.
I believe i wrote "from behind" not "the back".
So all 8.1 channel LEDs are on the same side.
It will all become clear when you'll see the control pcb
showing all the controls and options that were impossible
for the mk-I design because of the LM3915 limitations. :cool:
 
The answer is Yes and No ! :SB
Ch 5-8 are bi-color LEDs.
I believe i wrote "from behind" not "the back".
So all 8.1 channel LEDs are on the same side.
It will all become clear when you'll see the control pcb
showing all the controls and options that were impossible
for the mk-I design because of the LM3915 limitations. :cool:

Ok, I figured as much after looking at the board. I guess the only way they could be on the back would be to leave just a small enough gap around the circular cutout for the display and somehow bounce the light back to the front with a small mirror or something. Not even sure if a mirror would have any effect with LED’s anyway unless there was something in front of them to diffuse the output. That ‘might’ even give off a cool looking ambient light, but of course it would take more work as opposed to just using bi-color bulbs.

Still not sure how it will all look when finished but only time will tell right (y).
 
Hi everyone!
I have an important announcement to make:
I sold my house and have to move to a new one on december 1st.
Unfortunately this mean i will not have enough time to complete the mk-II
prototype before the end of the year..
I will still occasionally be working on the pcb designs but my priority is to pack and move.
The new prototype preview date is now march 2022.
Until then my friends!
 
Looking forward to seeing the new and improved Wurlyscope mkII. It will be sure to be a hit with the ladies....order ahead for Valentines Day to give a gift that she will never forget!

I was messing around with my Mark I tonight (no, not in ‘that’ way) and the music was on the quiet side with very few louder passages. I noticed that the Wurlyscope really handles quiet passages really well. The LED’s will light up very dimly in the quadrant(s) while the bar graphs come to the fore more visibly. It really resembles those CRT scopes a bit more and looks great.

Is there any way to dim the quadrants any? I really haven’t looked at the manual I hate to say, even though I did download it. Must be a man thing? Also, I know this is nitpicking but there is no easy way to tell what mode it is in because the push buttons aren’t marked with in/out. I can set it visually of course, but sometimes I am just plain dumb and need direction.

Anywho, looking forward to seeing the new version when you get close to releasing it to a waiting public. Wurlyscope ......the product of the future!
 
Looking forward to seeing the new and improved Wurlyscope mkII. It will be sure to be a hit with the ladies....order ahead for Valentines Day to give a gift that she will never forget!

I was messing around with my Mark I tonight (no, not in ‘that’ way) and the music was on the quiet side with very few louder passages. I noticed that the Wurlyscope really handles quiet passages really well. The LED’s will light up very dimly in the quadrant(s) while the bar graphs come to the fore more visibly. It really resembles those CRT scopes a bit more and looks great.

Is there any way to dim the quadrants any? I really haven’t looked at the manual I hate to say, even though I did download it. Must be a man thing? Also, I know this is nitpicking but there is no easy way to tell what mode it is in because the push buttons aren’t marked with in/out. I can set it visually of course, but sometimes I am just plain dumb and need direction.

Anywho, looking forward to seeing the new version when you get close to releasing it to a waiting public. Wurlyscope ......the product of the future!

Not sure if i'll be able to get a working prototype in time for Valentine's day. Everything is still in boxes and the main pcb with all the controls is not finalised yet. And then i'll have to have them etched assembled and fully tested.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to dim the leds. Even a slight variation of voltage will affect the behaviour of the whole matrix. I'm juggling with diodes & leds forward current vs voltage curves.
It is a delicate balance. Did you bought the blue model? It was the brightest. The only solution would be to open the unit and add a thin light filter. Mirror type would look very cool! I think i will try it on the km-II.

I have already checked if i could add some leds above each function buttons but it would not be possible for all functions. I also wondered if a bunch of mode leds won't affect the "visual pleasure" of the display and it would certainly do so. I will investigate if i could make some sort of "mode status" display area.

For the mk-I "Normal operation" is when the push-buttons are in the "out" position.
Quad/Stereo : out=Quad, in=Stereo
Fast/Slow: out=Fast, in=Slow
Normal/Differential: out=Normal, in=Differential
Power: out=Off, in=On
 
My Anthem processor plugs into the Wurlyscope & the parallel wired output jacks go straight my Adcom power amps. When the amps are on, and then I turn the scope on, there is a very loud POP. I guess the solution would be never turn the Wurlyscope off. But I frequently do as the display is bright enough to interfere with my front projection.

Maybe a thermistor on the power supply input? Or time delay relays on the output jacks? For the MK II.

Fun purchase & actually useful too!
 
May i suggest to reduce the input levels to zero instead of turning it off?
For the mk-I i assumed the internal positive and negative regulators of power supply would not produce any pop. I still have the first mk-I prototype. I think if i balance the load on the negative regulator to match the positive one that it would neutralize the pop.
For the mk-II, i have run simulations to minimize the power-on pop. A timed relay may be the solution. The power supply is much simpler with only one +5vdc external brick.
 
[QUOTE="Wurly1, post: 599555, member: 13641"
I have already checked if i could add some leds above each function buttons but it would not be possible for all functions. I also wondered if a bunch of mode leds won't affect the "visual pleasure" of the display and it would certainly do so. I will investigate if i could make some sort of "mode status" display area.

For the mk-I "Normal operation" is when the push-buttons are in the "out" position.
Quad/Stereo : out=Quad, in=Stereo
Fast/Slow: out=Fast, in=Slow
Normal/Differential: out=Normal, in=Differential
Power: out=Off, in=On
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Wurly. Will make up a small label with this info and maybe stick it on top of unit or off to the side. Or somewhere out of place so it doesn’t distract from the perfection that is the Wurlyscope.

I had not even cared about the brightness of the LED’s except for maybe wishing it had a pot for overall dimming, not just for the quadrants. But after observing it working with ultra soft music I really liked the way it looked/worked.

Also interesting is seeing the difference between a fully discrete signal and one from my Tate processor. You get to see how the decoder does it thing. Not as pretty to look at but interesting nonetheless. But I am sure that this is old hat to longtime owners of scopes.
 
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