If you solder on new plugs, make sure that you leave a little slack in the center conductor. It is usually just one or two strands, and breaks easily if stressed.
The Quadfather
The Quadfather
More Turntable Issues- Help!
- Thread starter dr8track
- Start date
Help Support QuadraphonicQuad:
Well, I purchased an ohm meter and have been testing the cables as instructed. The only thing I haven't done yet is test the internal connection where the phono cables attach internally to the tone arm connections. I've had all the screws out of the bottom of the turntable and still couldn't figure out how to get the bottom off.
But here is what I have done and it just doesn't make any sense to me;
1. Keep in mind that when the cartridge and headshell are removed and put on another turntable I get a good signal out of the R & L channels
2. I checked the L channel phono wire using the straight-pin-pushed-through-the-wire-sheild technique. I checked it at various points clear up to just before it enters the interior of the turntable. I get a 0 ohm reading at all points.
3. I placed one of the ohm meter probes on the L channel wire on the tonearm and one on the L channel phono plug. 0 ohm reading.
4. I placed one of the ohm meter probes on the L channel wire on the cartridge and one on the L channel phono plug. 0 ohm reading.
So, even though I haven't checked the actual internal connection where the phono wires are connected to the cartridge wiring, wouldn't the checks I did on #3 and #4 eliminate that as being a possible source of the problem? If there was a problem with the connection there I wouldn't get a 0 ohm reading from the cartridge to the phono plug would I?
Just about ready to call it quits, but maybe someone who knows more about this can shed some light on the problem.
Thanks
But here is what I have done and it just doesn't make any sense to me;
1. Keep in mind that when the cartridge and headshell are removed and put on another turntable I get a good signal out of the R & L channels
2. I checked the L channel phono wire using the straight-pin-pushed-through-the-wire-sheild technique. I checked it at various points clear up to just before it enters the interior of the turntable. I get a 0 ohm reading at all points.
3. I placed one of the ohm meter probes on the L channel wire on the tonearm and one on the L channel phono plug. 0 ohm reading.
4. I placed one of the ohm meter probes on the L channel wire on the cartridge and one on the L channel phono plug. 0 ohm reading.
So, even though I haven't checked the actual internal connection where the phono wires are connected to the cartridge wiring, wouldn't the checks I did on #3 and #4 eliminate that as being a possible source of the problem? If there was a problem with the connection there I wouldn't get a 0 ohm reading from the cartridge to the phono plug would I?
Just about ready to call it quits, but maybe someone who knows more about this can shed some light on the problem.
Thanks
S
sondeguy
Guest
The problem is that the tonearm cable exiting the turntable is porbably of a coaxial type and pushing a pin thru could short the cable. most internal tonearm wiring is not coaxial so yes bottoms off unsolder the cables and take areading fom tonearm headshell mount to where it joins the output cables. Another thought did this turntable have an auto mute function . Some did and it could be a dirty contact on the reed switch.
The Technics SL 1200 has no mute switch. Piercing a coaxial cable can give you unreliable readings. I would never try to pierce a tonearm wire, it is so thin and vulnerable that it will most likely be damaged. For all the hassle involved with testing, replacing the cable is the easiest option and it is most likely (95%) the culprit. Believe me, I work on turntables almost every day. Just do it, and have a good night's sleep.
Well, finally I got my turntable cable repaired. A technician friend checked it out and as many suggested, it was a break in the cable about two inches from where it enters the turntable body. He cut it shorter and reattached it. So, that problem is taken care of. I've installed a NOS stylus and tried it out. After setting up the decoder w/ test record, the right channel output sounds really nice, but there is distortion in the left channel. I'm guessing this is because the cartridge isn't aligned. Before I give up on this thing can anyone suggest a reasonably priced device for aligning my cartridge. I don't want to spend a fortune. I'm rapidly approaching expenses in repairs that I could have spent on a working turntable.
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Alignment, anti-skate and stylus force could all be contributing to this. It is probably a combination of all three. Here is a link to a free alignment protractor:
www.enjoythemusic.com/protract.htm
After setting alignment, be sure to set your anti-skate. An incorrect anti-skate setting can cause the stylus to "hang left" or "hang right", which decreases tracking of the alternate groove wall, ultimately leading to the distortion you are describing. Stylus pressure that is too light can also contribute to this. Check the manufacturer's range and use the upper limit (as close to two grams as is recommended will yield the best results).
www.enjoythemusic.com/protract.htm
After setting alignment, be sure to set your anti-skate. An incorrect anti-skate setting can cause the stylus to "hang left" or "hang right", which decreases tracking of the alternate groove wall, ultimately leading to the distortion you are describing. Stylus pressure that is too light can also contribute to this. Check the manufacturer's range and use the upper limit (as close to two grams as is recommended will yield the best results).
Hey Cai,
Well, you know which "working turntable" could solve all my problems. But, I figure I should try everything I can with this before giving up. Question about anti-skating; I have read that the anti-skating setting should match the tracking weight. Is that correct?
Also, I have one of the cartridge alignment protractors from the site you mentioned. The problem I have had with it is not matter how many adjustments I make I can't seem to be able to get the stylus to line up with both he points on the protractor. If I get one to line up, then the stylus is a bit forward from the other point. If I get to second point to align, the first one is off. Does in need to be dead-on on both those points? If so, any tips on what I might be doing wrong in not getting it to align?
Regarding the tracking weight, I'm not certain what the manufacturers range was on this. Last night I tried 1.5 grams with anti-skating set at the same amount. Maybe I'll bump it up to about 1.7 grams and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Well, you know which "working turntable" could solve all my problems. But, I figure I should try everything I can with this before giving up. Question about anti-skating; I have read that the anti-skating setting should match the tracking weight. Is that correct?
Also, I have one of the cartridge alignment protractors from the site you mentioned. The problem I have had with it is not matter how many adjustments I make I can't seem to be able to get the stylus to line up with both he points on the protractor. If I get one to line up, then the stylus is a bit forward from the other point. If I get to second point to align, the first one is off. Does in need to be dead-on on both those points? If so, any tips on what I might be doing wrong in not getting it to align?
Regarding the tracking weight, I'm not certain what the manufacturers range was on this. Last night I tried 1.5 grams with anti-skating set at the same amount. Maybe I'll bump it up to about 1.7 grams and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
I started typing up some turntable adjustment tips, and, well, I got a little carried away. I hope you folks (not just George) find this information useful:
TURNTABLE ADJUSTMENT FOR DUMMIES
1. Level your turntable!
Before you start making any adjustments to your turntable, make sure it is level. You cannot hope to make proper settings to your table unless it is perfectly level. The best thing to do is to get it perfectly level in place where you’re going to leave it and work on it there. If this proves cumbersome or impossible, just make sure it is perfectly level on your workspace and in its final location.
2. Align the cartridge
If you are using the alignment tool from www.enjoythemusic.com/protract.htm the stylus tip should line up on both points. It may be that your print-out is a little out of alignment (improper aspect ratio). Try printing the PDF version of the alignment tool. This should help avoid printing/resize problems with the tool.
3. Balance your tonearm
Every time you realign your cartridge, you need to rebalance your tonearm. You do this by rotating the counterweight until you’ve achieved perfect balance. From there, you adjust the counterweight’s marker to zero. Only then is your counterweight “dialed in” and ready to properly reflect the stylus pressure you set it to.
3. Adjust stylus pressure
As far as stylus pressure, I would use 1.7 minimum and work your way up. Dial the counterweight until it indicates 1.7 grams. Put a record on the turntable and make sure it is unplugged. Lower the stylus onto the record and pay attention to the cantilever (the narrow rod that holds the stylus) in relation to the cartridge body. If the body presses down to much and the cantilever collapses so that the cartridge body is too near the record, then you know you've set the stylus pressure too high for the cartridge. Experiment with different settings and observe how this affects the cartridge body's height above the record surface. As you increase the stylus pressure, if you notice very little or no decrease in this height, then you'll know you can get away with a higher (and more preferable) stylus pressure setting. If you can get it to 2.0 grams without causing any undue stress on the cantilever, that will be optimal for CD-4 performance.
4. Adjust anti-skate
As a rule of thumb, anti-skate should be set to be the same as the stylus pressure. However, I've never found this to be optimal. The best way to set anti-skate is with a record with a blank band (no grooves) designed for such a purpose. But, my guess is you don't have one kicking around. The next best method is use the tonearm lift mechanism to gently lower the needle onto a regular, spinning LP, close to the "sweet spot" (the spot indicated on the alignment tool; the one furthest from center). Now, as the stylus touches down on the record, look very closely, and see if it has a tendency to pull to the left or right. If it does, make a corresponding adjustment to anti-skate. Repeat this process until the needle gently lands in the record groove and jerks neither left nor right. There you have near-perfect anti-skate.
5. Remember, they’re connected
At a later date, if you decide to back off on the stylus pressure or maybe crank it up a bit, don’t forget to re-adjust your anti-skate!
6. Keep it clean!
Finally, keep your records and stylus clean! I use a stylus brush and Ronsonol lighter fluid. A clean stylus will make all the difference in the world, and lighter fluid is great for removing that vinyl gunk build-up. Discwasher stylus cleaner is useless, but their brush works nice as long as you stick to a back-to-front movement. Just douse the brush with lighter fluid.
TURNTABLE ADJUSTMENT FOR DUMMIES
1. Level your turntable!
Before you start making any adjustments to your turntable, make sure it is level. You cannot hope to make proper settings to your table unless it is perfectly level. The best thing to do is to get it perfectly level in place where you’re going to leave it and work on it there. If this proves cumbersome or impossible, just make sure it is perfectly level on your workspace and in its final location.
2. Align the cartridge
If you are using the alignment tool from www.enjoythemusic.com/protract.htm the stylus tip should line up on both points. It may be that your print-out is a little out of alignment (improper aspect ratio). Try printing the PDF version of the alignment tool. This should help avoid printing/resize problems with the tool.
3. Balance your tonearm
Every time you realign your cartridge, you need to rebalance your tonearm. You do this by rotating the counterweight until you’ve achieved perfect balance. From there, you adjust the counterweight’s marker to zero. Only then is your counterweight “dialed in” and ready to properly reflect the stylus pressure you set it to.
3. Adjust stylus pressure
As far as stylus pressure, I would use 1.7 minimum and work your way up. Dial the counterweight until it indicates 1.7 grams. Put a record on the turntable and make sure it is unplugged. Lower the stylus onto the record and pay attention to the cantilever (the narrow rod that holds the stylus) in relation to the cartridge body. If the body presses down to much and the cantilever collapses so that the cartridge body is too near the record, then you know you've set the stylus pressure too high for the cartridge. Experiment with different settings and observe how this affects the cartridge body's height above the record surface. As you increase the stylus pressure, if you notice very little or no decrease in this height, then you'll know you can get away with a higher (and more preferable) stylus pressure setting. If you can get it to 2.0 grams without causing any undue stress on the cantilever, that will be optimal for CD-4 performance.
4. Adjust anti-skate
As a rule of thumb, anti-skate should be set to be the same as the stylus pressure. However, I've never found this to be optimal. The best way to set anti-skate is with a record with a blank band (no grooves) designed for such a purpose. But, my guess is you don't have one kicking around. The next best method is use the tonearm lift mechanism to gently lower the needle onto a regular, spinning LP, close to the "sweet spot" (the spot indicated on the alignment tool; the one furthest from center). Now, as the stylus touches down on the record, look very closely, and see if it has a tendency to pull to the left or right. If it does, make a corresponding adjustment to anti-skate. Repeat this process until the needle gently lands in the record groove and jerks neither left nor right. There you have near-perfect anti-skate.
5. Remember, they’re connected
At a later date, if you decide to back off on the stylus pressure or maybe crank it up a bit, don’t forget to re-adjust your anti-skate!
6. Keep it clean!
Finally, keep your records and stylus clean! I use a stylus brush and Ronsonol lighter fluid. A clean stylus will make all the difference in the world, and lighter fluid is great for removing that vinyl gunk build-up. Discwasher stylus cleaner is useless, but their brush works nice as long as you stick to a back-to-front movement. Just douse the brush with lighter fluid.
<blockquote><strong><em>Quote:</em></strong><hr>Just douse the brush with lighter fluid[/quote]
CAUTION ! 8o <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=""> Don't be SMOKING!
0] Rob
CAUTION ! 8o <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT="
"> Don't be SMOKING! 0]
Rob
Um, yeah, I don't smoke so I don't even think about that. By all means, don't smoke or play with matches while you are cleaning your stylus with lighter fluid.
Actually, if you play records at all, you should think about giving up smoking. As if the obvious health risks weren't reason enough, that damn cigarette smoke gets everywhere, including on your records. Uck!
Actually, if you play records at all, you should think about giving up smoking. As if the obvious health risks weren't reason enough, that damn cigarette smoke gets everywhere, including on your records. Uck!
Cai,
Thanks for the detailed guidelines. I played around with the adjustments again last night without any success. I increased to 2 grams. Plays fine in stereo, but can't even get the decoder set up properly in CD-4. I'm sure I'm still screwing something up in the adjustment/alignment process. However, the turntable/cartridge/stylus combo have never, ever worked for CD-4 decoding since I bought the thing in the 70's. I was hoping the NOS Stanton quadrahedral stylus and the Marantz decoder would solve the problem.
I wish someone who had a working cd-4 system could take my turntable, plug it into their system and determine once and for all if it this combo works! I may be beating a dead horse trying to get this Stanton quad cart to work.
Thanks for the detailed guidelines. I played around with the adjustments again last night without any success. I increased to 2 grams. Plays fine in stereo, but can't even get the decoder set up properly in CD-4. I'm sure I'm still screwing something up in the adjustment/alignment process. However, the turntable/cartridge/stylus combo have never, ever worked for CD-4 decoding since I bought the thing in the 70's. I was hoping the NOS Stanton quadrahedral stylus and the Marantz decoder would solve the problem.
I wish someone who had a working cd-4 system could take my turntable, plug it into their system and determine once and for all if it this combo works! I may be beating a dead horse trying to get this Stanton quad cart to work.
George, check your e-mail and get in touch with me.
R
ranzy
Guest
I know exactly what you mean! When I first got my quad system and was having problems with it, I just didn't know if I had a decoder problem or stylus problem. I just wanted to plug the turntable in to a working system to eliminate it from my worries. As it turned out, I had a decoder problem and was able to fix it, but that would have helped me for sure.
Ranzy
Ranzy
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