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Audionics of Oregon Space & Image Composer

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bmnquad

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Hello all, stumbled upon this page while researching a piece of equipment acquired from a storage locker. I have no means of testing it and one of the wires that is plugged into it is broken and doesn't have an end to it. I am looking to list on Ebay for fair value but because of its scarcity I don't really know what that value is or if I should get it restored prior to trying to sell it. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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quadsearcher

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What wire is broken? Is it the grey cable coming out of "Accessory Interface"? Also RB output RCA jack is pulled partially out, might have a broken connection. This is the kind of thing I like to try and restore. Post a link when it is listed, I'm curious. No idea of the value unless it is known to be working. Maybe a picture with the top lid off that would show interested people that there is a non-rusty circuit board inside?
 
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It figures that the remote control was cut off (cut cable from "Accessory Interface" jack), it would have added to buyer interest in the auction.
I was actually the one who reached out to you through Ebay about seeing the unit in person. Congrats on the apparent sale of the unit!
 

bmnquad

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It hasn't sold, we just ended the listing until we could get more information. We had 6 messages in an hour regarding the item and had no idea what to tell people. My brother also has the item at his house right now and has some paranoia about people coming to his house because of virus transmission concerns.
 

quadsearcher

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I thought the point of an auction was to let demand for an item set the price. But I agree, if one does not know how to answer questions about the item, it might be best to do more research. Both to avoid misrepresentation to a potential buyer, and also share enough information to attract potential bidders.
I wonder, if there is no way to test the thing, does that mean you have no DVD/CD player nor 4 or 5.1 audio system?

Edit: I just realized, if the wired remote cable is cut and ends in bare wires, please don't let them touch when powering it up! There might be some connections there where a short could cause serious damage!
 
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It hasn't sold, we just ended the listing until we could get more information. We had 6 messages in an hour regarding the item and had no idea what to tell people.
Thanks for the feedback. I recently noticed it back up for auction.

I wonder, if there is no way to test the thing, does that mean you have no DVD/CD player nor 4 or 5.1 audio system?
It could be tested with just a stereo CD player and stereo inputs on a receiver: it would be a bit slow, but allow for cursory testing of surround sound synthesizing of stereo sources in both SQ and "stereo enhance" modes by testing two pairs of outputs at a time. Watching the front display LEDs could also give an indication about whether it's sending signals to the different output directions, although no guarantee that the actual output is clean.

Best of luck on the auction!
 

jaybird100

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I have one of these units. Bought it in 1979. It hasn't been used for some time, and I think it needs to be recapped. Last time I did use it, one channel was noisy. How economically can it be recapped, or should I sell it and get a Surround Master?
 

Quadzilla

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I have one of these units. Bought it in 1979. It hasn't been used for some time, and I think it needs to be recapped. Last time I did use it, one channel was noisy. How economically can it be recapped, or should I sell it and get a Surround Master?
There are a lot of capacitors in the photos but I only count a dozen electrolytics (six in each photo), and they are the ones that usually go bad with age. The others look like film caps, and they last much longer. Half of those electrolytics are in the power supply (the bigger ones), but the smaller ones are very cheap.

I would find someone to replace those 12 capacitors and any other electrolytics that might be hiding in there. You are probably aren't looking at a lot of money for the caps, so you might be able to can find a local hobbyist to do the work. If you were local, I would do it for you for a case of beer … but not that Yank stuff.
 
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jaybird100

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There are a lot of capacitors in the photos but I only count a dozen electrolytics (six in each photo), and they are the ones that usually go bad with age. The others look like film caps, and they last much longer. Half of those electrolytics are in the power supply (the bigger ones), but the smaller ones are very cheap.

I would find someone to replace those 12 capacitors and any other electrolytics that might be hiding in there. You are probably aren't looking at a lot of money for the caps, so you might be able to can find a local hobbyist to do the work. If you were local, I would do it for you for a case of beer.
True, you're a bit of a schlep from me. I don't have the schematic, and I think I'd need that so they'd know what values the capacitors are. I'd need to invest in that repair, plus some contact cleaner to get the controls back in shape.
 

Quadzilla

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True, you're a bit of a schlep from me. I don't have the schematic, and I think I'd need that so they'd know what values the capacitors are. I'd need to invest in that repair, plus some contact cleaner to get the controls back in shape.
The cap values are printed on them. A schematic is nice to have, but not necessary for this repair. If you were looking to modify it for some reason, a schematic would be helpful, but part for part is a pretty simple gig.
 

par4ken

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True, you're a bit of a schlep from me. I don't have the schematic, and I think I'd need that so they'd know what values the capacitors are. I'd need to invest in that repair, plus some contact cleaner to get the controls back in shape.
Schematics can be found here Audionics of Oregon - Space & Image Composer Schematics and here Audionics of Oregon Space & Image Composer - Info & History Over the years I replaced all the electrolytic coupling capacitors with film types.
 

Quadzilla

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par4ken

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The cap values are printed on them. A schematic is nice to have, but not necessary for this repair. If you were looking to modify it for some reason, a schematic would be helpful, but part for part is a pretty simple gig.
True enough, the cap values are printed on each of them. The Schematics can be a bit confusing, I've found some discrepancies. The Schematic shows the original National Tate chips, I assumed that they were pin for pin the same as the replacements however the National LM1852 has more pins than the RA402, don't know if everything else matches up.
 
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