High Current Amp/Pre-amp recommendation needed - Power for Infinity Kappa 9 pair

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When Bi-amping is used with passive crossovers it is really no different than Bi-wiring. The amps still pass the entire audio spectrum and are still just as prone to clipping.
Eh, me thinks this has been discussed earlier in thread. And reached a dead end. But you are right real bi-amping requires high/low pass filters at the line level then feeding individual power amps to the low/high speaker elements, sans internal xover.
It's really just that simple.
 
Eh, me thinks this has been discussed earlier in thread. And reached a dead end. But you are right real bi-amping requires high/low pass filters at the line level then feeding individual power amps to the low/high speaker elements, sans internal xover.
It's really just that simple.
Is it now?! Taking you literally, this is only true for a 2-way system, right? If 3-way you'd have to tri-amp and so on.
If I horizontally bi-amp my Energy speakers, using the two available binding posts, there will still be a passive xover between the two woofers. The only high speaker will be a solitary tweeter, so I assume it won't have a xover.

I'd love to look at the circuit diagram, if I can find it! :unsure:
 
Is it now?! Taking you literally, this is only true for a 2-way system, right? If 3-way you'd have to tri-amp and so on.
If I horizontally bi-amp my Energy speakers, using the two available binding posts, there will still be a passive xover between the two woofers. The only high speaker will be a solitary tweeter, so I assume it won't have a xover.

I'd love to look at the circuit diagram, if I can find it! :unsure:
Sounds like you would have to open up the speakers to bypass the internal passive filter. With my speakers I Bi-amp but the high end consists of of midrange and tweeters with a passive crossover between them. Full tri-amping might be better but my setup is a good compromise. The main thing is to give the bass it's own amp!
 
Are you distinguishing bi-wiring from bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is pointless there is no technical merit in doing it, in fact most of the claims break the laws of physics - it just makes the cable manufacturers richer!
The Energy Veritas manual gets more specific. They only recommend veritcal bi-amping, not horizontal.
It does seem kinda silly to drive just a tweeter off a whole tube amp. The low posts feed two woofers. The high post one tweeter.
View attachment 72293
This is how I (I'm an Electronic Eng) would do it so a large amp to power Left & Right Woofers - they need more energy to get the sound level, and a smaller one to drive the mid-range and tweeter. I would place a crossover before the amplifiers. In my days of messing around with bands this was how we drove our PA rigs. Active speakers have built in specific amplifiers designed for each frequency band.
Is it now?! Taking you literally, this is only true for a 2-way system, right? If 3-way you'd have to tri-amp and so on.
If I horizontally bi-amp my Energy speakers, using the two available binding posts, there will still be a passive xover between the two woofers. The only high speaker will be a solitary tweeter, so I assume it won't have a xover.

I'd love to look at the circuit diagram, if I can find it! :unsure:
Yes true 3-way would require 3 amps.

By the 'looks of it' your Energy speakers have a Low Pass Filter for the Woofer and a combined Filter that filters and splits the signals to the mid-range and tweeter, hence only the dual binding posts. The mid will be a band-pass filter and the tweeter will have a High Pass Filter. Be careful how big an amplifier you use for the mid & tweeter as they will not take as much power as the Woofer.
 
Bi-wiring is pointless there is no technical merit in doing it, in fact most of the claims break the laws of physics - it just makes the cable manufacturers richer!

This is how I (I'm an Electronic Eng) would do it so a large amp to power Left & Right Woofers - they need more energy to get the sound level, and a smaller one to drive the mid-range and tweeter. I would place a crossover before the amplifiers. In my days of messing around with bands this was how we drove our PA rigs. Active speakers have built in specific amplifiers designed for each frequency band.

Yes true 3-way would require 3 amps.

By the 'looks of it' your Energy speakers have a Low Pass Filter for the Woofer and a combined Filter that filters and splits the signals to the mid-range and tweeter, hence only the dual binding posts. The mid will be a band-pass filter and the tweeter will have a High Pass Filter. Be careful how big an amplifier you use for the mid & tweeter as they will not take as much power as the Woofer.
It sounds like you're describing vertical bi-aming, Dunc. Horizontal is what I have in mind. My Adcom tops out at 20khz, so I'd like my tube amp powering the tweets, so get more range (it goes up to 70khz or something)?
I might be mistaken, but I think the Energy lower binding post powers the two woofers, while the higher binding post powers only the tweeter.
 
Can't wait to play with the miniDSP 2x4 HD, showing up today. Hopefully I can figure it out!
I gotta figure out the range the lower posts cover and allow a smidge higher for the low signal, and what the higher posts cover and allow a smidge lower, yeah?
 
This is what I'm trying:
horizontal_bi-amping.PNG

Except, unless I'm mistaken, in the case of Energy 3-ways, LF/MF are handled by the lower binding posts. The higher posts feed only the tweeter.
 
Energy C-8 "crossover point" is listed as 1800hz (1.8khz). Same for all the other Connoisseur models. I'm guessing this is the demarcation line between the lower posts and the higher posts.
c-8_xover.PNG
 
It sounds like you're describing vertical bi-aming, Dunc. Horizontal is what I have in mind. My Adcom tops out at 20khz, so I'd like my tube amp powering the tweets, so get more range (it goes up to 70khz or something)?
I might be mistaken, but I think the Energy lower binding post powers the two woofers, while the higher binding post powers only the tweeter.
I finally found something on-line, I suspect you're correct! But as it says 3-way it is quite likely that the cross-over is then a combined low-pass/bandpass for the woofer and a bandpass for the mid, so 1x 8" for bass and the other 8" for mid-band, then a separate high pass for the tweeter.
Energy C-8 (2).png
 
I finally found something on-line, I suspect you're correct! But as it says 3-way it is quite likely that the cross-over is then a combined low-pass/bandpass for the woofer and a bandpass for the mid, so 1x 8" for bass and the other 8" for mid-band, then a separate high pass for the tweeter.
View attachment 72302
Help in understanding how to configure my miniDSP 2x4 HD would be greatly appreciated!
 
That is quite possible, seems likely, but really need to see a manual.
snippet posted above

Veritas Manual (including the 2.3)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/255326/Energy-V2-3.html
Energy C-8 manual
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Energy-Connoisseur-C-8-6998193.html
As for miniDSP help, I basically need to know how high to let the low freqs get and how low to let the high freqs get.
The filter ranges. High-pass and low-pass? I get the two confused with each other.
 
snippet posted above

Veritas Manual (including the 2.3)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/255326/Energy-V2-3.html
Energy C-8 manual
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Energy-Connoisseur-C-8-6998193.html
As for miniDSP help, I basically need to know how high to let the low freqs get and how low to let the high freqs get.
The filter ranges. High-pass and low-pass? I get the two confused with each other.
I would initially match the cross-frequencies with the miniDSP 2x4 HD so for the C-8s a 1800Hz Low Pass (LPF) for the lower binding and a 1800Hz High pass (HPF) for the other. Might also need to look at the slope of the filters which is set by the filter order (and set the type), i.e. how quickly they roll-off above for LPF & below the cut-off for the HPF, they need to match slopes or you won't reproduce the sound correctly.
 
I would initially match the cross-frequencies with the miniDSP 2x4 HD so for the C-8s a 1800Hz Low Pass (LPF) for the lower binding and a 1800Hz High pass (HPF) for the other. Might also need to look at the slope of the filters which is set by the filter order (and set the type), i.e. how quickly they roll-off above for LPF & below the cut-off for the HPF, they need to match slopes or you won't reproduce the sound correctly.
I've seen it recommended to set the slopes to around 1 octave.
 
I've seen it recommended to set the slopes to around 1 octave.
Depends on the filter type and order, in 'general' for audio you don't want too sharp a slope, but you have to reduce the out-of-band signal enough or as an example you could get a Bass or mid-range signal damaging the tweeter.
 
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