Yes, you will have to clip the wires. The schematic indicated StaKon connectors but maybe that was a different release of the speakers.
If the rear ones work you could move them around to the front. I wouldn't replace them on the back. If you don't want to cut the wires but you can reach the solder or contact points (probably insulated) you could try tapping them with the VOM. If the problem is a broken wire in or connection in the crossover but the driver is still good it will click a little. You can use a nine volt battery too which will make it click louder. Don't leave it connected. Just tap it. If you get no clicks then unwire it and try again which won't probably change anything. If no clicks (or hook it directly to the jolida and keep the volume low) when unhooked you will need to rebuild , repair or replace the driver. Also don't leave the VOM connected for a long time. Touch , read and release. The vom has a battery in it and flows a small amount of current. Try the different resistance ranges. If you get a click it should vary the volume.
If you have the Jolida , the Crown and an Adcom you could tri amp them using a one of those Dayton DSPs. It would involve clipping very few connections but you could leave most of the crossover. You would pick (probably the biggest amp) for the two woofers. Cross them at 80-100 Hz.
Drive the next two drivers with another amp. And finally probably with the Jolida the super tweeter , tweeter and if you have enough drivers the rear tweeters. You would set the Dayton for a little bit wider bandwidth so that the internal crossovers could still work but not so wide as to waste the benefits of tri amping. It would kick ass. If you leave the rear tweeters off disconnect at the RDE 050 thermal gadget. This would greatly reduce the impedance gyrations and make life much easier for the power amps. Among other advantages.
I finally looked up a picture of Kappa 9s. They look a lot like my speakers which were designed about ten years earlier. Even if you have to replace some drivers they are nice boxes. And big boxes make big sound all other things being equal. Even if you had to replace all the drivers it would be a worthwhile project.
The diodes are easy to get. The drivers are what will would be more of a trick. Edit: Lots of traffic in various EMITs on fleab. and yes magicmarksy DOES rebuild them. He asks about $113. Diaphragms are available too. You would want to make sure their characteristics are very similar to the old ones. If you see a break in the trace you can paint it with silver circuit board paint to jump the opening.
https://www.chemtronics.com/circuitworks-conductive-pens-and-inks
If the rear ones work you could move them around to the front. I wouldn't replace them on the back. If you don't want to cut the wires but you can reach the solder or contact points (probably insulated) you could try tapping them with the VOM. If the problem is a broken wire in or connection in the crossover but the driver is still good it will click a little. You can use a nine volt battery too which will make it click louder. Don't leave it connected. Just tap it. If you get no clicks then unwire it and try again which won't probably change anything. If no clicks (or hook it directly to the jolida and keep the volume low) when unhooked you will need to rebuild , repair or replace the driver. Also don't leave the VOM connected for a long time. Touch , read and release. The vom has a battery in it and flows a small amount of current. Try the different resistance ranges. If you get a click it should vary the volume.
If you have the Jolida , the Crown and an Adcom you could tri amp them using a one of those Dayton DSPs. It would involve clipping very few connections but you could leave most of the crossover. You would pick (probably the biggest amp) for the two woofers. Cross them at 80-100 Hz.
Drive the next two drivers with another amp. And finally probably with the Jolida the super tweeter , tweeter and if you have enough drivers the rear tweeters. You would set the Dayton for a little bit wider bandwidth so that the internal crossovers could still work but not so wide as to waste the benefits of tri amping. It would kick ass. If you leave the rear tweeters off disconnect at the RDE 050 thermal gadget. This would greatly reduce the impedance gyrations and make life much easier for the power amps. Among other advantages.
I finally looked up a picture of Kappa 9s. They look a lot like my speakers which were designed about ten years earlier. Even if you have to replace some drivers they are nice boxes. And big boxes make big sound all other things being equal. Even if you had to replace all the drivers it would be a worthwhile project.
The diodes are easy to get. The drivers are what will would be more of a trick. Edit: Lots of traffic in various EMITs on fleab. and yes magicmarksy DOES rebuild them. He asks about $113. Diaphragms are available too. You would want to make sure their characteristics are very similar to the old ones. If you see a break in the trace you can paint it with silver circuit board paint to jump the opening.
https://www.chemtronics.com/circuitworks-conductive-pens-and-inks
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